Category Archives: solo female travel india

Turtuk, Ladakh, India Tourism

Leave a reply

Turtuk, India!  Continuing where I last left off writing about my trip around Ladakh.  The first half of the day, including Nubra Valley and Bactrian camels is HERE.

We arrived in Turtuk late afternoon.  We stopped at this cute restaurant for what I called dinner but my driver called lunch.

Then it was time to find a hotel.  My driver didn’t really speak English but somehow magically understood me when I said I wanted an attached bathroom.

He brings me to a place I don’t believe is a hotel.  It looks like a construction site.  It doesn’t look open.  He tells me to wait and he goes in and reports back that they have a room with a private bathroom but it is not inside the room.  I say no, less because of the unattached bathroom and more because are you sure this place is even open?!

Continue reading →

Ladakh, India: Leh to Nubra Valley, Hunder Sand Dunes and Lachung Temple

12 Replies

I have wanted to visit Ladakh, India for close to a decade.  The internet promised me gorgeous views and those views looked like they came with cool, crisp air that smelled fresh.  Fresh air that  I would be breathing in while seeing beautiful landscapes with occasional colorful monastaries thrown in.

The internet did not lie.

My driver picked me up in Leh this morning and off we went.   We stopped at Leh view point for a photo.

Leh View Point

Leaving Leh, as we were driving in a spiral around mountains, I saw groups of people walking on the roads.  Some had things such as sledge hammers with them. I assume they were walking to work on the roads.  This would make sense since mountain roads are very narrow and obviously people cannot drive to work and park a vehicle.  I would have assumed that workers were picked up and dropped off by a truck.  I am so curious about the ones I saw walking.  Where are you going exactly?  How long is the walk?  Where did all these stray dogs and cows come from?  This is just a road winding around mountains.  I did not see any towns, nor was there any place for a town.  One of life’s mysteries I suppose. Continue reading →

Annoying Day in Leh

2 Replies

For a place that I have been dreaming about visiting for over five years, Leh doesn’t seem to like me very much.

Yesterday, I got completely lost and sun burned.  I gave up and only went out for dinner and water.

Today I got up early to go get a sim card so I would have Google Maps.  I read online to get there by 9.  I was so worried about finding it but I did!  And they were closed.  Tried a second place, they told me to come back at 11:30.

I found the place where I need to pick up my certificate to stay in a hotel on a tour in a couple of days. Why do I need one?  I don’t know.  I cannot figure out how to get upstairs to the office.  I asked a man working in an art gallery and he brought me to the tour guide next door to see if he knew if they were open up there.  He tells me to call them, I cannot.  I don’t have a fucking phone.  He gives me his phone, nicest guy.  They are not open.

Later on I walked by again and art gallery guy asked me if I got in touch with the woman.  Yes, thank you.

About that hotel I got the voucher for – When I booked the hotel, which isn’t a hotel, it is a homestay, I noticed that the bathroom was outside the room.  No big deal.

The owner then emailed me and messaged me to tell me the bathroom is outside the room.  Yes.  Then he asked if he could call me.  WHY.  So he calls me on the telephone from the middle of nowhere India to tell me that the bathroom is not inside the room.  Yes, this could not be any clearer.  He said that when foreigners visit, they get upset and leave bad reviews.  Then he sent me their brochure and I suddenly want to fight every person who ever gave these adorable people a bad review because they cannot read descriptions.

Continue reading →

Julley From Leh, Ladakh!

2 Replies

“Julley” is how you say “hello” in Ladakh!  It is also what all the shop owners say to me as I walk by and they try to lure me inside.  I actually do need to buy a headscarf tomorrow and I will be visiting monsateries where woman must be fully covered up, head included.  The curse of being a woman in religious parts of the world.  Just wait until later this year when I travel to a place I have to wear an abaya.

But back to today.  With a stop off in 2018.

In 2018, I had a trip planned to Leh, India. Then I unexpectedly got a new job and didn’t want to ask for 3 weeks off after I started and then another 3 weeks later in the year for my planned trip to Jordan and Egypt. So I saved to Egypt and Jordan trip and abandoned Leh. Finally 5 years later, I am on my way.

Last night, I went up to my hotel roof and took this photo. The closest thing I did to sightseeing on this leg of my trip.

Worked for my last time before taking a month off. I really need this break. My job has been driving me absolutely bonkers.

Hired a driver to take me to the airport at 4 am. Did one last trip up the step and almost took the desk out as I was leaving.  Why am I so clumsy? I tripped up and down that step about 7 times.

Continue reading →

Dear Diary: I Saw the Taj Mahal Today!

1 Reply

OOOOH TAJ MAHAL!

The most popular tourist attraction in India. One of the New Seven Wonders of the  World.  A place I never thought I wanted to see because I don’t like crowds or people.   But today I went.

I needed to travel from Jaipur to Delhi and looked into getting a driver.  As I am working while traveling (until tomorrow when I am free!) I want to make things as easy as possible for myself when traveling to cities.  Well lo and behold, not only did I find a driver, I found one that stops at Taj Mahal and said fuck it.  Let’s go!

My driver picked me up at my hotel at 3:00 AM, which is the same time I got off work as I am working EST.  I slept off and on a bit until we stopped for the restroom and I got a coffee that was absolutely fantatsic.

Back in the card for the rest of the way.  I did not realized I had unintentionally booked a guide.  I don’t want or need one.  I just want to see the pretty building.  And pretty it was.

My guide grabbed my phone and told me he is a professional photographer and took photos for me.  I didn’t want him to.  Sure they came out much nicer than my always-crooked photos.  But like, it is MY trip and ME seeing it and I WANT TO TAKE MY OWN PHOTOS DAMMIT.

His fancy pants photo:

 

Some other photos:

We did the tour thing even though I honestly only needed a photo.  And then as I was melting, we sat down and the guide began pitching me on both carpets and his family’s pashmina business.  I will never understand why people try to sell me carpets when traveling.  Do people really buy carpets and have them shipped home while traveling?

I did get taken to the carpet store where the owner was miffed I didn’t want to purchase a carpet.  The funniest thing to me was him showing me all the carpets without any conception that I live in an NYC apartment and zero of these carpets would actually fit into any room I have that is not already carpeted.

Somehow I escaped not going to the pashmina shop.

My driver continued on towards Delhi and I got a little bit car sick again.  I pulled out my phone to see how far we were from my hotel.  SIX MINUTES WAHOO!

I got very confused, as did my driver, as his GPS led us to a residential neighborhood. But then we were here.  I love it here.

I was asked if I wanted tea but I wanted coffee.  They brought me a tray with coffee and some cookies. I love you so much.

I took a nap and cooled down after being trapped in a car for hours.  Then got up and had to go outside to get cigarettes.  Which of course, I forgot to get because I got sidetracked by actually finding Diet Dr Pepper in a store.

Now I am “at” work for my second last day of hell before being free.

I don’t know that I will keep up posting every day once I am no longer “at” work.  I did zero research on wifi speeds for any hotel following the one I am currently in because LA LA LA LA LAAAAAAAAA I AM FREE DON’T NEED TO WORK NO INTERNET NECESSARY LIVE LIFE FUCK YOU.

I do hope I keep a diary even if just for myself.  I want to remember all the things.  How it feels speeding down an empty highway in India.  In what feels like the middle of nowhere as there is nothing around.  Sitting at a rest area drinking coffee that probably costs a dime, but I can’t be sure since my driver refused to let me pay.  Smoking a cigarette sitting on the flimsy plastic chair that is a staple in Asia.

I love my hotel so much.  The room is great.  Ordering breakfast to be delivered to me tomorrow is even better.  And the best is how I am surrounded by greenery and pure silence while being in the middle of the tourist center of Delhi is amazing.

I keep daydreaming about what it would be like to be retired and not have my trips planned out to get the most I can out of them.  What if I arrived here without a flight booked out.  What if I had arrived and checked into this hotel and had zero plans and could just stay here for a week sleeping and enjoying relaxing and order trays of coffee and biscuits and sit out on the balcony just enjoying NOW rather than wanting to fast foward to the next exciting place because I AM SO EXCITED but yet I am never content to just be in the now.

And with that, I am off to bed to dream about tomorrow ending so I can finally be freeeeeeeee for the rest of my travels.

Last Day in Jaipur, India

2 Replies

Jaipur has been wonderful.  Last night I had the deepest sleep I have gotten since arriving in India. Hated myself when my alarm went off for me to get up after 5 hours to go sightseeing.  I did this to myself.

I had booked a tuk tuk driver to take me around.  I did not want to go anywhere that involved 398743 steps like this:

But I did want to see steps like this! Panna Meena ka Kund stepwell.
Continue reading →

Dear Diary: I am Awake in Jaipur

Leave a reply

I wrote a bit about Jaipur yesterday and am continuing my trip diary today. I’ll definitely keep this up for the next few days but it will be a crap shoot after that as my internet access will get worse further into this trip.

Once again I dragged myself out of bed with only 3 hours sleep. Once again, the plan is to do minimal sight seeing and take a nap before work. ONCE AGAIN I am wide awake and can’t sleep for absolutely zero reason.

I was thrilled to be back at my hotel with six hours to sleep before work. Can’t sleep.

I went to see Hawa Mahal today. I was exhausted and wanted to see just Hawa Mahal.  There’s so much more to see here but as long as I see this one thing, I am fine.

I tried to get an Uber. Dude keeps messaging me, wants to take me on a tour.  He is being aggressive and I am refusing. He then asks if I will cancel without complaint.  No. You wasted my time.

Next driver accepts my ride. Car never moves, zero response to me messaging him. Okay cancel that too.

Went down to the street and hailed a tuk tuk to Hawa Mahal.

Continue reading →

Hello From Jaipur, India!

6 Replies

After making it to Jaipur yesterday, I was so hot and exhausted.  I was able to get eight hours sleep and when I woke up, did not want to stay up. But I had a driver booked so up I go.

Breakfast was a buffet in the hotel, included with the cost of the room.  I ordered scrambled eggs.  I was asked “one?” and said “no, two” thinking I would get two scrambled eggs.  Nope, I got two servings of scrambled eggs.

My driver picked me up and we were off to Chand Baori stepwell.  Photo from the ride:

Continue reading →

Rajathstan, India: Udaipur to Jaipur With a Stop in Chittogarh

Leave a reply

Hello from Jaipur, after surviving the drive through Chittogarh from Udaipur.

I had booked a driver for this part of the trip. He showed up early, did not speak English and did not try to talk to me.  I love when that happens.

We got to Chittogarh faster than I expected and unexpected, my booking came with a guide.  No no no no nooooooo.  I don’t want a guide?  But it turned out it was good because I didn’t realize you need to drive though the fort to get to all the palaces.   My driver and I never would have made it through this conversation alone.

The fort is HUGE.  It is so impressive. It is also gorgeous.  And if you believe my guide, 16,000 women killed themselves here.

Continue reading →

My Last Day in Udaipur

Leave a reply

Ah, finally a full day in Udaipur to myself, no work!

Last night I booked a ride to Jaipur for Sunday that was both insanely expensive and yet still worth it because it stopped in both Chittogarh and Pushkar. These are two cities that were on my original itinerary and now are not.

I contacted the tour operator and explained cars cannot drive on the street of my hotel.  I gave them the address of the restaurant where my driver had dropped me off coming from the airport. The response I got was them asking me to go to the bus station “It is easier for everyone.”  Well no, not it is certainly not easier for everyone.  It is a further walk, although not very far.  A whopping 7 minutes per Google.  But I have walked that way every day so I know there are hills involved that I just don’t want to roll my luggage up.  I am paying way too much for this tour, you come and get me where I wish.

So I cancelled it and booked a new tour that only goes to Chittogarh.  Even though I am regretting that I will not see Pushkar, I also know this will get me to Jaipur earlier so that’s a win right?

I slept until noon today.  I didn’t get to bed until 5:00 am because work.  I packed most of my stuff and then went out.

I took a tuk tuk to the Karni Mata ropeway.  It cost me 250 rupees.  He offered to wait for me to finish and then drive me back, thanks but no.

The ropeway didn’t scare me as much as they usually do.  Although it being three in one was odd to me.

Continue reading →